With tourism as its main business, Rarotonga has enough sporting and other outdoor activities to occupy the time of anyone who decides to crawl out of a beach chair and move the muscles. A couple of activities, such as Pa's Mountain Trek, are mentioned.

Boating & Sailing -- Captain Tama's AquaSports (tel. 27-350) at the Rarotonga Sailing Club on Muri Beach, where the lagoon offshore is the island's best spot for swimming, snorkeling, and boating, rents a variety of watersports equipment, including beach kayaks, sailboats, Windsurfers, canoes, and snorkeling gear. Rental rates range from NZ$5 (US$3.25) for an hour's use of a one-person kayak to NZ$15 (US$10) to rent a Windsurfer for 1 1/2 hours. You get a free beginner's Windsurfer lesson (on a simulator) with a rental or pay NZ$35 (US$23) for a full course. Captain Tama's is open daily from 8am to 5pm.

Fishing -- There have been some world-class catches of skipjack tuna (bonito), mahimahi, blue marlin, wahoo, and barracuda in Cook Islands waters. If the sea is calm enough for them to leave Rarotonga's relatively unprotected harbors, charter boats start deep-sea fishing as soon as they clear the reef. Several boat owners will take you out, but I recommend Elgin and Sharon Tetachuk's Seafari Charters (tel. 20-328) and Wayne Barclay and Jenny Sorensen's Pacific Marine Charters (tel. 21-237), which have ship-to-shore radios and safety equipment. They charge about NZ$100 (US$65) per person for half a day's fishing, one of the lowest rates in the South Pacific. They like to have a day's notice, which you can probably give in person at the Cook Islands Game Fishing Club (tel. 21-419), whose clubhouse is beside the lagoon 1km (1/2 mile) east of the traffic circle. Whether you fish or not, you'll be welcome to have snacks and drinks at the club while taking in the view and swapping a few tall tales.

Don't expect to keep your catch; fresh fish are expensive here and will be sold by the boat operator. Bring a camera.

Golf -- Visitors can take their shots at the radio towers and guy wires that create unusual obstacles on the nine holes of Rarotonga Golf Club (tel. 27-360). The course was once located on what is now the Rarotonga International Airport, but it had to move it when the runway was expanded. It now lies under Rarotonga's radio station antennae (balls that hit a tower or wire can be replayed). Greens fees are NZ$12 (US$8). Rental equipment and drinks are available in the clubhouse. The club is open Monday through Saturday from 8am until dark.

Hiking -- There are a number of hiking trails on Rarotonga, but the most popular by far is the Cross-Island Track from Avarua to the south coast. A landslide had closed the track during my recent visit, but if it has reopened (check with the Cook Islands Tourism Corporation), it's the best hike in the South Pacific. The trail begins in the Avatiu valley and follows the stream high up to the base of Mount Te Rua Manga (The Needle). It's a very steep and often slippery climb, but the trail is well marked. The best way to do it is with Pa's Cross-Island Mountain Walk.

Horseback Riding -- Both adults and children will enjoy gentle rides along the beach and up to Wigmore's Waterfall with Aroa Pony Trek (tel. 25-415). The 2 1/2-hour rides cost NZ$50 (US$33) for grownups, NZ$30 (US$20) for kids. Age and weight restrictions apply.

Lagoon Excursions -- Captain Tama's Aquasports (tel. 27-350), at the Rarotonga Sailing Club on Muri Beach, has glass-bottom boat excursions on Muri Lagoon which include fish-feeding, snorkeling, and lunch on one of the small offshore islands. Captain Tama charges NZ$60 (US$39).

Running & Jogging -- The Hash House Harriers organization meets once a week for a fun run and sponsors an annual Round Rarotonga Road Run in October. Really, all one has to do for a jog on Rarotonga is to run down the road or beach.

Scuba Diving -- Rarotonga's lagoon is only 1m to 3m (4 ft.-10 ft.) deep, but depths easily reach 30m (100 ft.) outside the reef, and a drop-off starts at 24m (80 ft.) and descends to more than 3,600m (12,000 ft.). There are canyons, caves, tunnels, and many varieties of coral. Visibility usually is in the 30m to 60m (100 ft.-200 ft.) range. Two wrecks, a 30m (100 ft.) fishing boat and a 45m (150 ft.) cargo ship, sit in depths of 24m (80 ft.) and 18m (60 ft.), respectively. Best of all for money-conscious travelers, the diving fees here are the lowest in the South Pacific.

Dive Rarotonga (tel. 21-873; fax 21-837; www.diverarotonga.com), Cook Island Divers (tel. 22-483; fax 22-484; www.cookpages.com/CookIslandDivers), and The Rarotongan Dive Centre (tel. 20-238; www.rarotongandivecentre.co.ck) on the west coast and Pacific Divers (tel./fax 22-450; www.pacificdivers.co.ck) on Muri Beach charge about NZ$70 (US$45) per dive, including equipment. They also teach PADI certification courses.

Swimming & Snorkeling -- Getting into the water has to have high priority during a visit to the South Pacific, and Rarotonga is certainly no exception. The lagoon is deep enough for snorkeling off most hotels at high tide, but you'll do better walking on the west coast reef when the tide's out. The best spot for snorkeling (and the only one at low tide) is the Titikaveka lagoon on the southeast coast. If you're not staying at The Little Polynesian or the Moana Sands hotels, you can snorkel off the nearby Fruits of Rarotonga shop. Muri Lagoon off The Pacific Resort Rarotonga and the Rarotonga Sailing Club is the best spot for boating and second-best for swimming and snorkeling.

Most hotels have snorkels, fins, and masks for their guests to use for free. You can rent them from the Edgewater Resort (tel. 25-435) or from Dive Rarotonga (tel. 21-873) on the west coast, or from Captain Tama's AquaSports (tel. 27-350) at the Rarotonga Sailing Club on Muri Beach. Cost is NZ$5 (US$3.25) a day.

Tennis -- The Edgewater Resort (tel. 25-435) has two lighted, beachside Astro Grass courts, where pro Malcolm Kajer gives private lessons for NZ$30 (US$20) per hour. You can rent court time here for NZ$15 (US$10) per hour (Edgewater guests can play for free). Racquet rentals and balls are available.